Return to Satin

After the tulle parade of gowns, finally a real formal fabric dress!

Wtoo Mimi has lots of gathers and a huge waist bow and pockets…yes pockets…something you don’t get with a tulle or sheer skirt. The bride does not want to wear the huge flower.

You can see in this side view that the bust is really flaring away from the bride’s chest. What to do?

Well, the twill tape will help a little to snug it up and cup back to her chest by 2 inches:

Then insert the push-up bust cups from Wawak:

Remove all the back buttons and take in the zipper 2 inches, baste by hand:

Pick 3 points for the bustle, please ignore the wrinkles, it just escaped from the garment bag!

What you can’t see…hem the lining, hem the top satin layer, hem the petticoat layer with a horizontal tuck inside all the way around.

With the list of alterations and the labor involved and fees discussed, I ask when do you want to have your second fitting? Silly me thinking that they would allow me 2 weeks or more to get all this hand basted and ready for the third and final try-on…ready for this?

Can we come the night before the wedding? WHY?

The mother says that the bride MAY lose some weight from stress and the dress must fit like a glove. Of course! Lordie, I’m already stressed just thinking about it…will I drop a few pounds too?

I explain that actually I will not even be in town the day before her wedding and I need 6 days to finish…so they back down and allow me 6 days.

You can see in this photo of the lining that I had to remove a strip of boning on each edge next to the zipper:

Once the outer layer has been machine stitched to the satin, the lining is attached by hand to the underlap:

The overlap side with red thread basting ready to be stitched:

The shot of the back in progress just before all the final machine stitching and adding 2 hooks and eyes to the top of the bodice. The excess fabric has not been trimmed off as you know I like to leave whatever I can inside for the next poor seamstress.

The bride and mother loved with way the bustle looked like angle wings. With the front hems basted, the bride decides that she wants her front hem shortened 1/8 inch/ 3.175 mm. Will anyone be looking at her hem that closely? Will that minute amount make any difference? Probably not but I do what I am told.

Side view of bustle, so pretty and this dress has huge side seam pockets too.

Metal backed satin buttons attached for the 3-point bustle and the original cloth backed buttons sewn back along the overlap stitching line.

 

 

 

 

 

After the final steaming and ready to wear down the aisle:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This silk scarf was sent to me from my youngest daughter who knows I adore Gustav Klimt artwork. It is called the Tree of Life:

:I’m still getting birthday presents from my East Coast sewing sister:

And from my oldest daughter:

So it looks like I will have a summer filled with new succulents to watch and enjoy. This week we have had some of Mr. Mole’s family visiting from the UK and I thought the little blow-up bed for the youngest child was just so darling and cozy.

I had to clear out my second sewing room annex to turn it into a play room and sleeping quarters. I made each of the girls their own pillowcase with Peppa Pig and Disney fabrics to keep. The pink and blue fabric boxes contain new activity books, crayons, paints, sticker books, painting aprons etc. for their visit.

Coming soon…a doozey of a gown that the bride wants lots of additions sewn unto the dress…8 hours+ of labor and lots of head scratching!

Wishing you all a great week! Thank you to all the followers and new readers for visiting!

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21 Responses to Return to Satin

  1. Debbie Guihot says:

    I once had to move a button an 1/8″,yep sure made a big difference. Love your work.

  2. 1/8″…shaking my head. I love satin, so classy and elegant. I had a gorgeous red satin prom dress this season. Anxiously awaiting your next tale!

  3. shoes15 says:

    Lovely job as usual. And happy birthday! Enjoy your hens & chicks and the other plants.

  4. Happy birthday!!!

    Rob used to have me cut his hair before he decided to shave it all off– and whenever he asked me to cut “just an 1/8 of an inch” I said NOPE 😂

  5. Elle says:

    Happy birthday! And what a wonderful host you are to make the little ones so welcome.

  6. erniek3 says:

    For a haircut, I could LEAVE an 1/8th of an inch…..
    This is a lovely dress, glad you could push back on the ‘last minute’ work request. We all know that’s not going to work out well.

  7. mrsmole says:

    Rushing a project never ends up nice does it, Stephanie?

  8. Kim says:

    I’m always astonished by the thoughtlessness of clients. If it was found that she had lost weight the day before the wedding you would have been under enormous pressure to change anything – and we all know that’s when things go wrong. Idiots 🙄

  9. Juls says:

    Your bustles always look so lovely! Can you recommend where I can get more info on the nuts-and-bolts of creating them? I am fairly new to your blog, and if you have tutored us through this, I haven’t gotten there yet. I have so enjoyed reading back through your posts- it brings back memories/nightmares of fittings I have done. I thought of you when the mom showed up with the 5 year old and the McDonald’s bags a few months ago. Of course The Kid spilled the soda before I could get my 2 labs corralled…….

    • mrsmole says:

      There are so may references to all types of bustles on Pinterest and there are old fashioned videos on YouTube. All I really do is start pining the center seam up and go from there. Some gals spend a lot of time measuring and adding ribbons to tie under all the skirts. I only use buttons and hand made loops so I can see what I am doing and making it easy for a tipsy maid of honor to find all the points.Bustle points normally are odd numbers 1,3 5 or 7 although once I did a gown with 18 points.

  10. Susan Hart says:

    If she HAD lost weight…just right before the wedding….I would bought her 2 more Spanx and a handful of fiberfill for her bra!
    LOL
    Happy belated Birthday from up north in Aloha!
    Susan

  11. Donna Thompson says:

    Please tell me what you would have done for a for the bride for a last minute weight loss…. I have been in similar situations…. it’s hard to know how to respond correctly.

    • mrsmole says:

      I would have had to take in the zipper again or the side seams at the waist, depending on where it had become loose. With so many brides that think we can whip up a miracle the night before…if you are not related to the bride, you have the right to say no.

  12. Mary Lou Vanderpool says:

    Do you make a note of the shoes/heel height that the bride is wearing when you set the hem? I’ve had them change the height of their heels after the hem has been set and then the hem needs to be redone. One bride changed shoes 3 times, from very high heels, down to flats!!

    • mrsmole says:

      The first day they come and we pin up a bustle or hem, I tell them that I only do one hem so they have to decide what shoe and stick to it. I really don’t care if they go barefoot for the reception because by then the formal photos have been taken and the bustle will be up and the wines will be flowing and music blaring. My job is to get it right until the photos and then it is up to the bride to drag her hem through twigs, horse poop etc.

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