Build a Bustle

How about this for a romantic wedding gown? This Wtoo Bellevista gown has it all, gorgeous train, buttons down the back, sheer coverage, real shoulders and a ribbon belt.

It also has a few issues like most gowns. We have to deal with all the fluff under the skirt and whether the bride wants an over or under bustle. Let’s pin up the satin and lining layers first to use as a base:

This French under bustle shows off the lace embroidery really well:

The normal over bustle needs so many points to avoid those deep folds:

The under bustle making use of one line of buttons and loops.

The front view with under bustle

Going beneath the satin bustle layer, you can see that the manufacturer graciously made the netting layer as long as the train…nice idea but when you bustle you sure don’t want to see this hanging out from under it. If we trim the top layer of netting to ground level, that eliminates all that.

Then getting down to the lowest netting layer, it can be trimmed too…why not make it all neat and level under there?

With the top layers pinned/bustled up, it make a more pleasing view

The bride wanted a two-tiered under bustle to get all of the train up so here is a trial look. The second lower tier would be more even in the final days.

The other alternative would be to attach the bustle points at the waist under the ribbon belt. But the bride put it to me this way: “I DON’T want to see ANY buttons or loops or ribbons in my photographs, period!” Even though this version shows off all the lace to the best advantage and is simple to attach…it was “No Bueno”. So all the buttons in the under the bustle were clear plastic.

Another couple of problems were holes…in the tulle skirt and the tulle veil. Of course, I was expected to magically fix these like it was easy. Here is the bead edged veil hole:

As with other repairs, I used invisible thread and caught the two edges together. The hole was already shaped in an oval so it worked out well. I did not bother with the really tiny holes.

This long tear was in the side seam area near the hem of the skirt and I used regular polyester thread as it would get more abuse and you would not notice it.

Getting closer with the two tired bustle:

What about the veil….hope she doesn’t plan on walking through tall grass!

Mother Nature has been making sure some of our experiments have produced some good food. This year I planted cipollini onion sets in the strawberry pots and now they are ready to harvest and store in the freezer:

Mr. Mole tried planting corn seeds for the first time and we are anxiously awaiting the first crunch of the kernels. Next to the corn in the tunnel is Swiss chard which can be picked now before the hungry birds discover it!

Do you smile in your photos? Do you get your kids to smile in family photos? Well, back 100 years ago, that certainly was not the style when sitting in the photographer’s studio. http://spitalfieldslife.com/2019/07/13/nineteenth-century-east-end-darlings/

With Fall upon us, it is time to get thinking about season sewing and Christmas sewing…oh no…can it only be 104 days away???

 

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14 Responses to Build a Bustle

  1. Kim says:

    Another lovely dress.
    Please don’t mention the ‘C’ word yet!!!

  2. Rena says:

    Perfect! I have a very similar skirt in my studio right now so this was perfect timing on the bustle. I’m also working on a custom polka dot bridal!

  3. Tia Dia says:

    What great fun the old photos were! Thanks for sharing. I like the first under bustle best. I don’t particularly like the double under bustle…. it looks too much like a shelf, imho.

  4. Jane Fisher Urbach says:

    At least you had a bride who bought the right size dress for once

  5. mrsmole says:

    This bride was hoping to lose a little as she had just given birth but at least all the back buttons fastened well enough!

  6. Loretta M says:

    Every time I read your blog, I always think of say yes to the dress. Lol

    • mrsmole says:

      Every time I watch the show and see poor brides coming out to show their posse’ each dress for their approval or disdain, the amount of clamps on the back or the amount of back skin being exposed really makes me laugh. Here they are wearing the most ill-fitting wrong size dress for all the world to see on TV. I have brides who won’t have David’s do their alterations because they are exposed to the public in our little town. But, maybe if you are being paid to parade around like that or you get a huge discount on your gown…it must be worth it? Brides can be such entertainment!

      • I watched an episode last night and they showed the bride’s wedding at the end. Her dress was too big. The shoulder straps kept falling down. I kept thinking “how did the alterations person not see this???” The dress was too wide for her frame. Pulling an inch out of the center front would have made it look better although with a deep V they probably told her they couldn’t do anything! (It’s the Chelsea bride looking for the Hayley Paige Pepper dress episode)

  7. mrsmole says:

    Yes, I saw that one!!!! I thought the same thing…what about the straps? As soon as she turned around to walk away from the altar, she was trying to flip them back up…maybe that Pepper dress was not really for her but Kleinfeld’s got a lot of good exposure for her and Hayley Paige didn’t they? I’d much rather see Randy’s dresses on women as they fit and cover much better!

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