Lace and Wildlife

This dress is Wtoo Anastasia and I found these images on Google:

 

 

The dress on a real live bride:

What has to be done?

First we add bust cups, then pin out the side seams for the 4 layers.

The lining and satin layers will be machine hemmed but as you can see the scalloped lace hem will have to be treated like that type by removing the edging and moving it up 3 inches. It is already pinned up in the photo.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The satin bustle will have one point and the lace layer will have 3.

But, let’s tackle the side seams…these dresses have no sewn lace side seams…in fact they have no sewn lace seams anywhere. This entire dress is a series of lace overlays.

To start, I thread trace/baste with the outermost brown lines of thread to anchor the lace to the satin below to prevent shifting. Then the red thread lines have to be stacked and overlapped to correspond with the satin and lining layers already basted tighter.

Like with all other laces, the teeny tiny tacking stitches have to be removed to free the two edges and flipped back to reveal the tulle layer below:

These two red lines will be overlapped.

I used black basting thread on the tulle layer taking it in the same amount as the satin and lining layers.

From the wrong side, you can see all the original tacking stitches done by machine with poly thread and clear thread just to make it more impossible to see and remove them…you need a good Ottlite for this job!

To get inside, I released the lining along the zipper.

Hand basting the side seams of satin layer:

Hand basting the lining layer:

Hand basting the lining back unto the zipper for the try-on:

Overlap the red thread lines and use safety pins to hold everything in place:

You can see how much the new overlap will be.  All this will be hand tacked.

The hem edging is basted with red thread and the original hem folded under for the try-on.

The underarm seams have to be taken in as well.

The hem before final trimming:

After hand basting the delicate edging back unto the delicate lace, it was also machine sewn hoping I had some areas where I was not sewing edging unto big empty gaps!!!

The side seams completed with nothing being trimmed away for the future bride who might need all that extra lace.

The 3-point lace bustle with lace covered buttons.

                           

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                  How about a break from all that white???

My friend Kim, the Material Lady, sent me these two bird artworks that she created. I was supposed to decide which one to display and I am so happy to be able to use both of them in different rooms.

She also included one for Mr Mole who loves hippos:

Meanwhile, I continue to use her lovely gift of a quiche pan this week that she gave to me when I visited Birmingham:

So, with less than a week left before Santa drops down the chimney, the cards have been sent, presents have been sent, I can still see 2 more gowns hanging up to be finished and the new list of 17 Spring brides has arrived.

Wishing you all the best of holidays, no matter which ones you are celebrating. Hoping feasting and good cheer with friends and relatives with not too much drama may come your way.

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9 Responses to Lace and Wildlife

  1. erniek3 says:

    No seams. Wow. I’m going to get another cup of coffee and reread this again. At least this bride ordered the size nearest to her, and this is all just ‘no dress fits everyone’ stuff. When you get to that ‘sewing air to air’ section in the lace, how do you make that work? Stop the stitching and start again? Tissue paper to fill while you’re stitching to prevent distortion?

  2. mrsmole says:

    On the sewing air to air sections, they were hand basted and I had to follow whatever thin stretches of lace yarn were either on the edging or the skirt and hold my breath. Using a straight stitch and a fine needle, I could go slow and use the basting as support and then leave the ivory basting in place. The edging was stable so I didn’t use tissue paper. When I was removing the edging, the original stitching was very iffy so mine was actually more reinforced…go figure?

  3. Kim says:

    Another lovely dress but none of these manufacturers make it easy for you do they!?
    Glad you liked the pictures 🤗

    • mrsmole says:

      I love the pictures and they fit right in with each of the rooms! I tell every bride that her dress will have “issues” as all dresses do and some are not made for altering…you know that, Kim!

  4. Monique says:

    Happy holidays, Mrs Mole and thanks for continuing to amaze us with your “saves”!
    That quiche looks delicious, by the way.

  5. JustGail says:

    At least they haven’t figured out a way (so far) to leave out side seams on all the layers. That might happen if the fashion ever swings back to loose sack fit gowns. Then I suppose brides will want you adding fabric where no seams exist. Oh wait – you’ll be retired by then…

    I LOVE those pictures, especially the birds. The expressions have me making up so many stories in my mind, from “Oh Hella NO you did NOT just pluck my feather!!!” to “OMG – you remembered our anniversary!”

    • mrsmole says:

      The birds do have attitude! The pictures were actually given to me for my 25th anniversary so they are doubly special. Adding panels to non-existent side seams…stop it, Gail!!!! Yes, indeed, I will be retired by then!

  6. JustGail says:

    The birds made me forget my manners – Happy Holidays to you!

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