Nancy’s New Jacket 2

Maybe you remember the last floral jacket I made for her with Butterick 3926, a basic shirt pattern with a side bust dart.

Then, I made another version  without the collar. This time around Nancy has brought some very cool fabric. A close up shows that it is textured and the stripes run horizontally. These buttons did not go well so others will be used.

The blouse pattern does not have a back yoke or pleats, so I drew out a plan for using the fabric and more ease. First , I thought a center back pleat would look nice but the fabric is very crispy and cut crosswise so two side pleats sat better.

Here it is just cut out and basted…the sheen on the fabric makes it look lighter than it is.

Making a back yoke, adding neck darts to account for a rounded back alteration.

Two side pleats will help the fabric hang straight. I did not want to make the back too symmetrical so I offset the main brown vertical stripe.

After some pressing and a darker photo along with new sleeve cuffs cut in the opposite direction:

The plain front with sleeve pinned at the shoulder. You can see the lining poking out.

Nancy wanted a big pocket so I reinforced where the top corners would be on the wrong side.

Pocket pinned on the right side. The brown stripe cannot be placed precisely as it varies in width throughout.

Sleeve is cut crossgrain like the fronts and back (except the back yoke):

Just need to move the sleeve in a bit to the red thread line:

Moving along and you can see the lining. It is a tan silk that can look blue in a certain light.

The single pocket, side seams pinned tighter, neckline marked and Photo-shopped placement of final buttons agreed upon. Nancy like 3/4 0r 7/8 length sleeves.

What about the inside? Let’s make a complete neck facing and fold the outer edges under for attaching to the lining later:

The center front facings folded inside , right and left.

 

The facings stitched RST and flipped then under-stitched and topstitched.

The raw edge of the hem was bound with a strip of the lining. Yes, the lining was cut crossgrain as well to have the selvedge edge at the hem.

Sleeve lining runs from the top inside of the cuff and all the way up to the shoulder seam. All sleeve layers are hand basted and machine gathered and then attached to the bodice.

Machine sewn and basting removed. The seam allowance will be trimmed down and used as a sleeve head to puff up the cap of the sleeve.

You can see the nice rounded curve to the sleeve cap already before pressing.

After the sleeve insertion, the seams were bound with a bias strip of lining and hand tacked. How nice it will feel to slide an arm into this sleeve!!! Can you see the blue sheen to the tan lining?

Bias covered shoulder pads have snaps that can be used to remove before dry cleaning.

Making buttonhole samples to test the brown colors:

Front facing attached to lining:

 

With high side seam vents, the lining is hand tacked to the edges:

 

 

The finished project and ready to wear with all sorts of neutral colors of pants:

Ever wonder what other cultures bake for Christmas treats? Here is a woman who draws from the past to introduce the tradition to the present day.

Had one snowy day last week but it has melted. Makes for a nice day to stay in and complete projects…like late January and early February brides before the 2020 Spring brides start showing up!

 

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12 Responses to Nancy’s New Jacket 2

  1. Lisa says:

    What a lovely jacket!! Any sewing for Nancy is just a joy to read about. Please tell her thank you for being such a good sport.

  2. Nancy Figur says:

    That jacket will take her nearly anywhere, casual or more dressy. It is fascinating to see how you came to all the decisions and details. Beautiful work as always.

  3. that sleeve/armhole sewing is gorgeous. great result on this jacket.

  4. ceci says:

    What a pleasure this jacket will be, inside and out! Hope you keep all the snow at your end of the world.

    ceci

    • mrsmole says:

      Oh Ceci, we need the rain most of all but some snow adds to the fresh water come summertime. Our water comes from under a volcano and is filtered through lava rock.

  5. erniek3 says:

    Niiiiiiice. Very nice to see the process, the decisions as they come up, a careful think through of a challenging and beautiful fabric. Also understanding that whole “is the dress blue or white” flap of awhile back, looking at the different colors that lining reflects as. Sleeve cap/head is a great idea.

    I’m making some jacket shields for myself that I can snap or pin in, so I will actually USE THEM and spare my poor Grown Up Jacket the wear and tear of cleaning. It occurs to me that I should make them out of nicer stuff, so that indeed I will enjoy wearing them (vs tolerating them) as I read your thought about a sleeve it’s a pleasure to put your arm into. Thanks thanks thanks

  6. valerie says:

    Beautiful work and a jacket that will look good dressed up or down. Re the back neck darts, you’ve inspired me to try this as a solution to having all my shirt necks fall backwards on my frame.

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