Let’s do a few finishing touches shall we? Once the interfaced facing/collar is attached, it is pinked and flattened and top stitched. The blue thread mark the center front line for button placement.
At the turning point just above the button, at the waist, the seam is clipped and flipped awaiting topstitching.
Here is where the hem meets the side seam and where the front excess will be trimmed away to make the front hang flatter.
The sleeve hemline is thread marked.
I use fusible tricot interfacing for sleeves and hems from Wawak.
Making sure to have only 1.5 inches in the hem.
Apply the interfacing under the seam allowances. I don’t remove the thread marking until it is finished.
As the sleeve is tapered at the wrist, the hem has to reflect that change and become wider nearer the top.
See how my pin shows the new angle of seamline.
Nancy wanted a right side seam pocket to keep her car keys handy when running errands so here it is pinned for postioning. It will be lined with thick ivory satin for durability as the silk is thin. The selvedge edge/straight of grain will be attached to the front princess seam with small strips of elastic for ease.
The jacket hem with rayon hem tape applied.
Last time, Sue, commented that the shoulders looked like they were falling off her body. Can you see what I added to the paper pattern to make the shoulder more evenly square instead of the sad droopy? You can see the first altered armhole seam and then there was another 1/2 inch taken in (sleeve cap moved over) in the final fitting. The shoulder pads helped hold up that angle.
The yoke lining is topstitched through all layers and basted at the armhole ready for the sleeve insertion.
All this mess of layers will be serged to clean it up before attaching the sleeves. The fabric sleeves are attached by machine with the lining done by hand.
The sleeve caps will have rug wool bias strips.
Making sure to have a nice foldover of 2/3 the width.
Here is the nice soft cap being supported by the wool.
Inside the lined sleeves are hand attached…TV watching work for sure!
What’s nicer than covered removable shoulder pads? Dry cleaners can make a real mess of shoulder pads, so making them with snaps or velcro helps. Using bias silk, the pads are wrapped and then serged.
The pins mark the shoulder seam placement. also in this photo you can see the dusty muted wrong side of the silk compaed to the right side bolder colors.
Inside the side pocket. Before attaching, I used interfacing along that edge to keep it from stretching in the future.
Nice and flat
Closeup of the decorative button.
At first, I tried using a purse magnet to keep the jacket closed but the weight of the fabric layers kept it popping open so nancy was able to visit Josephines in Portland and they had a perfect brass snap.
Nancy has the choice to wear the collar up or down as ahe loves layering and wearing scarves over her jackets. I didn’t get a final photo of her actually in her jacket but she was thrilled.
The roomy back view just the way she remembered Pendleton jackets back in the day.
With Spring temps flipping to Summer temps of 100+ this week, Mr. Mole set about emptying our 3 compost bins to fill the new raised bed for all the squash plants.
First harvest of strawberries before the heat arrived!!!
Happy sewing everyone and a good growing season if you have veggies and fruit to harvest!