This Maggie Sottero dress fits the model like a glove.
But not all brides are models, are they? Let’s start with what has to be done:
The halter neck is supposed to join like this with two crystal buttons:
Pinning up the long scalloped lace skirt:
Taking in the right side seam:
Taking in the left side seam:
To make this dress secure, I suggested a different configuration for the halter and adding a new strip down the center to anchor it to the modesty panel. That way…NOTHING moves! The modesty panel will be moved over for the second fitting.
Always nice to let the helper know what the distance should be on lacing up day.
The bride can decide if she wants the bow to show or it can be tucked down inside.
Even with the panel moved over, I may still have to add to it.
As I was pinning up the one-point bustle for the satin layer, the bride grabbed the lace and it looked quite dramatic.
A better view:
A three-point bustle works well for the lace layer.
To take in the right side, first I remove all the lace. The same will be done to the left side. Even though this dress has a corset back, the side seams flared away from the body, especially the bust, and needed taking in right there.
The modesty panel will be detached and moved over just one inch…bummer.
The satin skirt layer is red thread marked for new hem.
Just folded under but will be trimmed later:
Same goes for the lace layer:
Lace hem border is removed like always:
Lace border is pinned 5 inches higher.
Let’s not forget the lining!
Back to those side seams:
Those side seams require the boning to be removed. You can see the pins on the outside. The boning will be re-attached later.
Can you see what a drop-off will happen once the side seams are taken in?
Here is the real proof…what do you do with a one inch drop?
Well, thankfully, the top lace trim can help cover it. Right side seam:
Left side seam:
Getting down to the new vertical strap:
The overlap with crystal buttons coming to fill the gap.
Second try-on and we still need more width to the modesty panel to bridge the gap.
Second fitting also shows that the hem will be higher in satin layer
The lace hem border is also raised another 1.5 inches.
Using a strip of grosgrain ribbon, I can draw on it and get my markings.
With the lace hem border pinned for it’s final position.
What happens to the vertical strap? I use some of the lining trimmed away to cover a new ribbon.
Edges are folded to the back and hand tacked down.
Lace motifs from the hem border are attached.
The final look with edge stitching…crystal buttons to come.
Going to use a strip of new horsehair braid from Wawak instead of removing the old one first.
The dainty lace trim is removed and used later.
New horsehair braid is pinned into place.
After the second try-on, the side seams needed more taking in satin and lining.
I had to widen the modesty panel by 3 inches to bridge the gap. So, of course you need horizontal boning to keep the shape. The new boning is hidden inside the two layers of satin, not against her skin.
Two huge snaps hold the “tail” of the new strap and the lace trim fills in the gaps on the bodice.
Final touches include bust cups and back photo with bustle.
Final photos with Mr. Mole and his weekly harvest!
It is so nice to have our 100+ degree days are over for now and soon we will be gathering all the Butternut squash to store over the winter.
Happy sewing everyone!