After letting the muslin rest for 2 weeks, I’m back to measure and tweak it. As we know, my right shoulder to my waist is one inch shorter than the left. So what options do I have to look more balanced? Here you can see the 1/2 inch drop.
Starting with the last pinning and purple marking lines:
The other alternative is to add a shoulder pad at least 1/2 inch thick.
Looks better already! But what if I don’t want to add a shoulder pad in every garment?
Leaving the shoulder pad in, I decided to take in the side seams a little. The bust darts need a little tweaking too.
Here are the new shoulder seam lines for the right shoulder:
The left side doesn’t need much more:
After unpinning , I mark the new side seam lines in red.
If I was going to make this blouse without a shoulder pad, here are the seam lines I would use.
Comparing the shoulder seams you can see that the right side would be sewn at the size 16 line and the left shoulder at the size 18. What does this do to the sleeve when it gets attached? Well, that comes later once this bodice is machine basted. I will also make new fronts in muslin fabric so everything matches and has the same drape.
Maybe you don’t have sloping shoulders or one lower than the other. Maybe you have more squared shoulders and patterns fit great right out of the envelope. But maybe you have fitting issues with your bust where the ginghan rises or droops or drag lines appear. I have a friend and new model who has these issues and soon I will introduce her along with photos from her pattern making sessions with me.
Thank you for following along, next time should see the muslin/sloper ready for sleeves! Almost Fall in this hemisphere and Spring in others…can you feel the change?