Some final tweaking is needed before the sleeves are to be attached.
Working with my duct tape dummy is so easy but what does the sloper/muslin look like on me? How close did we get to a good fit?
Now, I will cut all the basting and flatten the gingham fronts and cut them out in muslin fabric.
For comparison, I have stacked the two gingham fronts and muslin fronts along with the original paper pattern.
The green line is the new side seam for the back with the original my actual measurements line in red.
With the gingham replaced with stiffer muslin, it is easier to see any issues.
The right side forward sloping shoulder shows that the back side seam needs to be trimmed down to meet the front. In measuring the actual armscye of each side, they differ by 1/2 inch…see chart below. At this point a decision has to be made about which size sleeve to use as they are different dimensions.
Muslin fronts looks OK:
Muslin back looks the same with the right sloped shoulder:
Right side measured and underarm to be trimmed away to measure 10 inches to match the left side.
Left side with extra needed to be added at the hem:
You can see that the fronts have ended up shorter than the backs at the side seam. Taking up the shoulders can cause this 1/2 inch difference.
I have a student who always asks about what size sleeve works best…the answer is…measure the armhole, measure the sleeve and see what amount of ease has been given.
Checking these measurements shows that the original paper pattern gave the sleeve 1.25 inches to ease into the armscye.
Using the altered muslin mannequin measurements and to allow for trimming away the excess of the right side to bring it up to match the left side of 19 inches we will have to ease in 2.25 inches.
Firs, I drew the seamline in pencil for the size 18 sleeve and then I drew a seamline 1/2 inch away and measured that line to get 20.25 inches.
That gives us 1.25 inches to ease in just like the original. So, next I will make 2 gingham sleeves and attach them to compare and share with you next time. If you have never measured a sleeve and armscye before…please give it a try so you know what ease is included. For a simple cotton blouse 1 or 1.5 inches of ease is plenty.
Hoping everyone following along is doing well and can follow the photos. Thank you for your comments and emails to: firstname.lastname@example.org