Plans for Nancy

When Nancy spends time in Portland, she brings back such goodies for me!

Here are some future projects:

Butterick 6421 two-toned jacket/coat View A

Vogue 1318 jacket View B

Along with some Italian wool for 2 more pair of pants:

I made a muslin of the Butterick 6421 using just her measurements since we actually don’t have a template for her. The front is the shorter version for the jacket and the back section is the coat length just to decide what looks best.

All these pieces can be used as color blocking and we think the main body of the jacket will be made in the taupe color and the vertical bands in the charcoal wool.

The only alteration I did on the paper pattern was the slash and spread across the upper back and added neck darts to maintain the center back fold but they may move to the princess seams. That is the cool thing about making a muslin, you see things you want and can change before cutting out the fashion fabric. Adding 1 inch to the upper back slash and spread will cause the waist seam to drop, so that might need to be altered later.

On the mannequin, you can see how well it hangs until a real body arrives.

There are 2-piece sleeves and cuffs and a lining and collar and pockets to be attached later.

  

This pattern reminds me of the vintage West Point cadet uniforms with the striking vertical front band and high collar.

For those who missed my sleeve cap gathering rows before…here is the sequence:

The 5/8 inch stitching line is used once the gathers are attached to the bodice. Then the 3/4 inch row will be removed.

With Nancy in the jacket, we can see some areas to pin out. To start with, the neck darts will be moved over, the back princess seams can be tighter, the side seams can be taken in and the sleeve moved up. The waistline seams will also be moved up unto the bodice by about an inch so it sits on her waist.

Shoulder pads will be included next time. The collar may or may not be used.

The back skirt section was pulling and would need to be wider to allow for sitting, so I opened up that center back seam.

The side seam was opened as well to relax the skirt section and I also slashed the space between the center slash and the side slash. This whole pattern piece will be altered and re-cut in the fashion fabric. I may even add some waist darts using her pants pattern as a guide for placement. If you think about the top of a skirt and top of a pants pattern…they are really the same space…using darts to give extra fabric over hip  and tummy curves.

As our summer has ended, there are telltale signs that winter is near.

Sunflower heads that were too heavy to stay on the stems were cut off and the birds have made a feast of the seeds:

Mr. Mole has transplanted and mulched the outdoor plants and labelled them:

Nadine patiently watching a house finch tuck into another sunflower head:

For all those celebrating Thanksgiving this week, I wish you a moist turkey and never-ending pieces of pumpkin pie. Thank you for following along!

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5 Responses to Plans for Nancy

  1. Lindsay says:

    Watching the transformation of Nancy’s jacket is fascinating. Nadine is equally fascinating and taking care to not frighten her subject.

  2. mrsmole says:

    Another sewing friend was interested in this pattern and how it fits. The back sections are very flat so darts will be added to make the skirt section more flattering.

  3. Susanjane says:

    Study the Sandra Betzina jacket carefully before deciding to use it. I got it several years ago and deciphering the cutting lines for my size was a nightmare. I decided not to use the pattern.

    • mrsmole says:

      Good advice, Susanjane. I have tried to use her patterns in the past and I still don’t know why she uses letters instead of numbers for her sizes. Can’t we call a size “G” a 20 or whatever is measures? The best reason for making a muslin is when we are slightly or totally confused…ha ha.

  4. Pingback: Jacket Taking Shape for Nancy | fit for a queen

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