Template + Jacket

Time to start using my template to compare a jacket pattern for myself. This jacket has front princess seams and a center back seam. With the template under the new pattern back, we can see that the upper curve is peeking through.

Flipping this over to reveal the template on the top shows how wide this jacket back is in the armscye area. Interestingly, the shoulder width is 5.25 inches but looks much wider.

Let’s do the same with the front and those princess seams. I have overlapped the seams to get it all to lay flat.

Flipped over, things line up pretty well except for the bust dart area. The center front edges line up perfectly.

After making hundreds of tops for women over the years, I discovered that most have a 10 inch bust point distance between them. So what is going on with this pattern? This pattern and another one like it both have a spread of 7.5 inches and that is for all sizes up to a 22 which I am planning on using.

If I want to make a 10 inch spread, I will have to add somewhere.

One place to add to is the side seam as I needed 13 inches from center front to the side seam in the first blouse, being a jacket, I should actually need more right? If you can pinch an inch down each side seam in a blouse giving you 4 inches of ease, pinching out an inch and a half to 2 inches would make it 6-8 inches of ease. This will be a straight boxy jacket worn over blouses and dresses.

So I can add one inch to the side seams to start with OR one inch to the front princess seam. Before cutting out a muslin, I’m going to add to both places as it can all be pinned and trimmed away later.

Here is the center front with added one inch where I need it and it allows the bust point to shift to the 5 inch (total of 10 inches) position. I want the seam to match my 10 inch spread and not sit to the right or left.

You can see that I have made a copy of the new pattern with all the measurements and grainlines I need. OK, it looks a mess but it will be traced again without all those lines!!!

My main concern always with women who have a cup size larger than say a “B” is to get enough coverage in front and the back should take care of itself.

You can see that the back top side seam is 1.25 inches wider than my template. For now I will leave it as it may be needed later? Part of the problem is that to get a good bust circumference (50 inches), they keep adding to the back underarm section but that is not where we need it.

The same goes for the wider armscye…all will be made right when the sleeve is basted on.

I will do my usual upper back slash and spread to get the right curve and probably add the neck darts. If I leave the curve and cut the fabric, it could accentuate the fact that I altered the pattern if the fabric has a linear or plaid motif. So the center back seam should be straight on grain.

Next time get ready for some slashing and adding and overlapping for a better fit! Having my template can really guide me to what will and will not work. In the end making a real sloper in muslin fabric will show up the differences that will be pinned out. Shoulder pads will be pinned in throughout the fitting process.

Before I go, I want to share the alterations done to Nancy’s back jacket. Neck darts have been eliminated and wedges of fabric have been added to the jacket “skirt” so there will be no pulling or drag lines and be easier to sit down. Still lots of tweaking to come before we cut out the wool fabrics but happy with the little additions!

I can’t believe we are almost in December but the frost on the rooftops warns that Winter is coming for sure! Snow is predicted this week…brrrr.

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