Ready for Class

After many weeks of making multiple alterations to the paper pattern and so many traced copies of every version of the pieces and tweaking the muslins, the result is …I have a class-ready sloper/toile with added seam allowances.

Here is the inside with the extended seam allowances. All seams are pressed away from center and the shoulder seams are pressed to the back. With the added seam allowances at the neck, it does not sit flat right now until fabric is trimmed away and snipped.

Not too much exciting about the flat back and I did not make the neck darts but just drew them in along with all the stitching lines for the quilting phase.Right side out and you can see all the vertical stitching lines and horizontal balancing lines at the front yoke, bust and waist. Again, all the thick seams are pressed away from the front. My muslin fabric is so crispy that is shows up any little highs and lows but so glad I added the roundness where the side fronts join the front section at the bust. Now the dreaded drag lines are from bulky seam allowances and not the bulky seamstress.

Side view and back show that I could use another sway back alteration but I won’t mess with that back waistline until I get to class. Considering how bulky all the seams are and add to the circumference, I think it turned out pretty well. Trying to coax thick stiff muslin fabric into delicate curves and side seam gathers was a real challenge. Looking forward to feeling the softness of wool fabric which should conform better. Once the sleeves are attached in class all those drag lines will hang properly and disappear.


And the 3-piece sleeves were made in the same way:


Just in case…I made sleeves with regular seam allowances. Sleeves will be attached in class later.

Sad news concerning my two basic sewing machines…the Elna 720 and Janome 11000. Both of them have started causing me fits…the Elna will not make long basting stitches and has a grinding sound and the feed dogs sometime seize up and refuse to draw fabric through.

The Janome won’t even start without turning it on and off with the needle up or needle down over 25 times and even then refuses to do some stitches and doesn’t know how to embroider or recognize commands. My dear repairman has tried his best to fix these problems but I think they will reoccur and I want a machine(s) that I can trust.

My friends tell me that after 20 punishing years of bridal sewing, they are probably just plain tired of cranking out 80-100 dresses a year and want to stop.

So with my sewing money saved up, I asked my local dealer to special order a Janome 14000 as they do not normally carry it. It arrived Dec 24 and so far so good. The manual has 170 pages and I have read through it to get acquainted. Lots of the functions are similar to the 11000 but with way more options like a pull out over table light and a “quiet mode”. Janomes are pretty quiet normally but with this setting, all you hear or feel is the needle hitting the fabric…no motor sounds!

This should be the year to get creative and get back into embroidery and have some fun!

Our weather on the West Coast has been scary with 65 mph winds and rain and flooding. Our fabric netted veggie cages were totally blown away and lots of trees were flattened in the back yard along with branches of trees from neighbors’ yards flying into ours. Neighbors on both sides of us had their wooden fences blown completely flat along with many many other folks in the valley so the fencing companies will be busy for a while! Mother Nature sure can hurl some crazy weather!

Thank you for following along and I hope this blog gives you confidence (and permission) to slash your patterns and slopers to get a perfect fit!

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11 Responses to Ready for Class

  1. Dara Harper says:

    ALWAYS SO NICE to hear from you. I hope your class  is enjoyable and a good learning experience for you. CONGRATULATIONS on your new machines! A little late, but Happy New Year!

  2. mrsmole says:

    Thanks, Dara, I’m sure I will learn something useful and new about Chanel jacket construction. Really looking forward to it!

  3. Lindsay says:

    Your storms have been stronger than I expected; hang in there! I am so looking forward to hearing about your experiences at the workshop!

  4. mrsmole says:

    Thankfully our valley is at 1500 feet so no flooding but 65 mph winds have really torn up the area with power outages and downed trees. I feel so sorry for everyone facing flooding down the whole length of Calif. We are used to having rainfall measured in inches, not FEET!

  5. Enjoy your new machine. Always enjoy your posts.

  6. maryfunt says:

    Enjoy the class. You deserve a week to immerse yourself in sewing for fun. Glad the weather didn’t wreck havoc with your property.

  7. mrsmole says:

    Thank you, Mary…it should be fun and informative and a nice break. Mr Mole has tied all the trees back upright but he lost all the fabric cages from the veggie beds…ha ha…they went sailing into the atmosphere!

  8. JustGail says:

    I haven’t done any garment sewing for a couple of years, but did save your posts about making a sloper. I hope you don’t mind – I’ve seen enough good information disappear or go private, I like having it local to my computer.
    I agree that your machines have worked hard and earned their retirement. At least they waited until you were done(?) with bridal work. Bummer on the budget though. Enjoy the new power tool, I hope it gives you at least 20 years of good service!

    • mrsmole says:

      Oh Gail, I expect and hope folks will save my posts for the future if they find them of some use. The bridal posts were just to share how many different problems came into the sewing room and my attempt at solving them but my real love is fitting real bodies. It’s amazing to look back on my decades of sewing and see the changes every 20 years…here’s to 20 more when I am in my 90’s!

  9. kate says:

    I wanted to thank you for operating this blog. I’m 23, and have been reading your posts since early college. Sewing has been my main passion since I was 8, but I love reading your posts and learning techniques and fitting solutions I never knew before. I’m a rather unusual size for modern fashion (42″ bust, 30″ waist, 41″ hips) and, as you might expect, need to do quite a lot of adjusting to average sewing patterns to get them to fit me. I love your posts because they point me in the right direction for all those fit issues. Thanks so much for what you do!

    • mrsmole says:

      Good got you, Kate…figuring out the best way to fit your body now will serve you well in the future. You will also be able to fit your friends and family knowing techniques and not fearing the slashing and spreading and adding pieces where you need them.Thank you for following along!

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