Slow Going

Not all projects go smoothly and sometimes there is a real “bump in the road”.

Working on Nancy’s jacket should have been an easy project, right? The muslin and early try-on went well but then the party came to a halt.

Can you see what happens down near the hem? Why are straight of grain bands flaring out? Has this ever happened to you?

After checking all the seams and the paper pattern over and over, I went back to the cutting room and checked the leftover selvedge pieces to see why the fronts were stretching like that.

And here is what I found:

Have you ever had fabric stretch on the straight of grain? I sure have never come across such an animal and this explains why the the sections attached to the bands are growing.

So what can be done? I raised the panels below the waist seam about 3/8 inch to counterbalance the angle. So now it is slightly better but I would have never known as all the other large pieces stayed in place and did not stretch but that “L” shaped piece just had nothing else to grab unto.

Here is the inside ready to attach the bands.

You can see the bands are attached with only a slight flare at the bottom and I have marked the location of the hidden snaps on the right side.

Because only the front bands are interfaced with fusible tricot, the lining bands needed some beefing up to hold the one inch snaps so they get their own circles of tricot. The edges are pinked to not show on the right side after pressing.

The wild silk lining and the finished bands…just need the lined sleeves and hem. The bands will be sewn together on the inside seams for stability and also topstitched along the outer edge.

What you can’t see is the fact that I have added triangles of silk near the hem at the side seams because this silk fabric is from the 60’s when fabric came in 35 inch widths.

  You know how Facebook sends you reminders of past photos…well this popped up this week from 22 years ago when we arrived from Liverpool with two suitcases, two sets of cutlery and nothing else. We started from scratch in a vacant house with two camping chairs and a TV bought from the local Walmart. We used the cardboard box as a table and had all the energy of 50 year olds to repaint all the rooms as we waited months for our shipping container to arrive from England. We rented a bed and acquired a microwave for meals and spent every day up and down ladders stripping wallpaper and painting over bright red and navy blue walls.

Now we can and should hire workers to do any jobs we need and we avoid doing stupid things on ladders…well, most of the time anyway.

The most daring thing I do now is bake Basque burnt cheesecakes.

The one on the left was made in a 6 inch springform pan with no parchment paper and the one on the right I used parchment paper all on the inside so it did not get at burnt on top but the tops are divine! They taste smoky and a little crunchy and the inside is custard-like and when made with monkfruit granules instead of 1.5 cups of white sugar…so low carb! All the ingredients are whizzed in the food processor and then poured into the pans…so easy peasy!

Hoping all your sewing projects go smoothly this week with no bumps in the road!!!!

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9 Responses to Slow Going

  1. Dara says:

    You Encourage me to Keep Sewing! Thank you😀😀!

  2. Jerry Benfield says:

    Oh my mrsmole maybe go back to brides? What a job you tackled! Give me quilting any day!
    It will be beautiful when finished.

    • mrsmole says:

      Brides have more issues and of course a time table so sewing for Nancy gives me more time and a chance to work out problems without a mother and mother in law standing over me telling me how to alter the dress…ha ha.It’s great that we sewers can follow our own path like you and quilting. You generously make gorgeous things to give away and that is your reward. Thank you, Sandi!

      • Sandi says:

        Hi again my sweet friend, Just giving you a bad time. No matter what you do it is always perfect.

  3. Lindsay says:

    What gorgeous fabric! This jacket is something special. I do remember the 35 inch widths. Thank you for sharing all of your sewing journey. I love the solutions you invented.

  4. Sue says:

    Mrs. Mole, I did not know you were from England. Are you familiar with Jane Foster? She is a sewing and design teacher in the San Francisco Bay area. Jane is also from England – Cornwall area. She has a beautiful studio in her home where she teaches. I have taken classes from her. You might enjoy looking at the garments her students make. She has a Facebook page at JaneFoster Sewing and Design Studio. She also has a blog

    • mrsmole says:

      I’m not familiar with her. I lived in the UK for 8 years but am from So Calif. I will certainly look her up on her website…thank you for the link! Cornwall is a lovely place with better weather than Liverpool up north!

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