Altering Triangles

Last time we saw so many issues with the pattern right out of the envelope with none of my prior personal adjustments done to the paper pattern.

Why not?

Well, as each of the pieces have been cut on bias and there is lots of stretching and growing, I think it was wiser to just cut one size and then pin out or add to whatever was needed.

So let’s start at the top and start pinning out what we don’t like…my slooping right shoulder is always one inch lower than the left so I pin out that amount.

I also pinned out the left shoulder just temporarily. Since both shoulder seams are bias, they want to “grow”.

 

The left side shows lots of things that have to be adjusted. Drag lines point to where the slash should be. The angled up waistline seam also indicates the problem is higher up across the upper back. The lowest back panel shows how the fabric is flaring away from the body as well…maybe one slash and spread will fix all this?

The center back seam at the neck is also bias cut and “growing” so I pinned out 1/4 inch for 1/2 inch in total. Adding 1/4 inch gingham allows me to know the exact inches to add to the paper pattern at the center back seam by counting the little squares.

Adding this patch has allowed the waistline seam to drop and become horizontal and the back lower panel to not flare away from the back/butt.

Using the front drag lines, I slash above the bust and add more gingham…the same amount as the back.

Right side view shows how the gingham fills in the gaps. The armhole will be reshaped by laying the original pattern over the altered pieces so the sleeves will fit. Then the neckline will need a 1/4 inch tuck on both sides to lay flat.

Side seam is vertical after adding the front and back patches.

The left shoulder seam was unpinned to relax and lay flat.

The waistline darts should match up but the paper pattern was off by 1/4 inch for each.

Next, I will unpin all the top pieces and add to the paper pattern sections after tracing the seam allowances. Who would think that all this has to be done just to get a blouse pattern to fit and hang correctly?

Do you get the feeling that this started its life as a flat bodice and someone just drew diagonal lines, cut on the lines and added seam allowances and called it done??? I sure do with no fitting features like…darts?

Next time I will show all the additions to the paper pattern and another preview if this can be salvaged and the armhole bust gap eliminated.

With the whole northwest of the US and Canada overwhelmed with forest fires, the air we breathe here is deemed unhealthy and the storms and heavy rains are too far south to help out.

If only we could wake up our lawmakers/politicians/old white men who make laws and set policy to the fact that this is a real emergency year after year no matter where you live.

One bright spot this week was Walmart self check out…with so many folks complaining that our local stores have eliminated ALL cashiers and everyone must check all their own purchases…guess what? The company has realized that thievery is accounting for some pretty great losses and they are going to bring back cashiers…money talks louder than their customers!