Who wanted to see what happened to the gingham enhanced boxy jacket? Remember where we left off? My client was pinned with strips of gingham horizontally and vertically but what happens next? Do I get out the magic wand and all that is super translated into a real working pattern? Not really.
In my world, which may be different for you, I work backwards for this step. I take apart the muslin and lay each piece under the paper pattern to see where they differ and choose the next step. Time consuming, you bet, but never a waste of time. This trains your eye and brain to think in the flat as opposed to 3-D. Is this a good thing? Of course it is…all paper patterns are flat so get used to it.
Let’s start with something simple, the lower fronts and backs. Not much was done except once the gingham was added to the upper sections it allowed the lower sections to drop about 2 inches and swing towards the side seams which we will trim off. I originally cut a size 18 except for adding at the hip level for more ease.
How about the fronts? Please click on the photos to see better. While the huge wedge throws off the grainline, we just make a new one and slide the shoulder up to cover the extra added gingham and that opens the rest of the wedge where the gingham is missing under her arm. She needed more ease to raise her arms so this is where it goes. The front neckline edge will be trued up later. Since we have added 1/2 inch to both the front and back shoulder area, the sleeve is next and it shows that we have also managed to add exactly 1 inch to it with gingham…love that!
Now we have ease, more depth in front…what’s left??? My favorite adjustment, one I have been doing on my own patterns since I was in my 30’s. Let’s add some curve to the upper back and make the neck edge hug the neck and not fan out…who wants that? Slide the shoulder up like with the front and open the slash deeper.
My folded edge just crossed over the line a little, forgive me, I get so excited making this new dart!!! But seriously, this make such a difference! If you don’t have to allow for that center back fold, just let the center back seam allowance curve a little and enjoy the perfect new fit. I will use the paper pattern with the muslin attached for cutting out the new fabric or I could add new paper patches and tape them on permanently…depends on how I feel…will I make this again…that is up to the client. I am forever encouraging her to color block- light on top sections and darker on the bottom, throw in some cool piping etc…keep your seamstress happy!