Thinking about whipping up the VERY Easy Vogue 8969? Think it might just fit perfectly right out of the envelope and you can just cut your regular size and have a frock to wear to dinner tonight? Guess again!
I know some/
most of you don’t measure the paper pattern against your own measurements and assume the designers are magical wizards who know how to make clothes fit your shape…but let’s do some investigating…humor me, please.
This is the size 16-24 and yet the bust points (nipple spread) are 4 inches apart …really? And why is there a dart on the center panel when 99% of this famous 60’s design feature was always on the side panel? Darts release fabric where it is needed so why is the dart pointing away from the actual bust point of 10 inches? Very Easy Vogue patterns…translation: easy for them, not us.
Let’s measure our circumferences…if you normally cut a size 16 on top, like Nancy…today you will cut a 20. Why don’t Vogue patterns make their sizes consistent?
So we have enough to clear the bust and hips and after narrowing the flared hem to half its original width it is still 104 inches. The back of the envelope says the hips will finish with 88 inches…WOW! Let’s see the muslin for the real reveal: I used some Nancy’s last muslin to cut out the new one…recycle people!
I draw my grainlines up and down and across since I have not altered the paper first and the lines tell a story/
show us all the ugly. Here is what we got in a short version which Nancy says will make a dandy blouse: Can you see already that those 8 panels need narrowing and flattening to be flattering? What is going on with the bust…can those darts be any weirder or more useless?
If you cut this in a solid you will look like this:
Not too bad so far but there will be a swayback tuck and a front slash…love those!
On my duct tape mannequin something else shows up: See the grainline rising up in the center? Does that bother you? It makes me nuts and I know what can fix it and get rid of that pesky dart…scissors ready?Close the dart by overlapping and let the slash open.
Problem solved with one more tuck needed: Let’s pinch out some of the princess seam while we are at it. OK…want to ask me now why I do all this fussing? For you, of course, to give you the power to tweak these shitty patterns and make nicer clothes!
Let’s get cutting…see the flaps folded under on the skirt…wow…and it will still be too wide later. The piece with the white paper is the center front with the slash filled in and flipped to the wrong side. Below is the pinning and sewing sequence…yes, yes…I know all the home sewing gurus say to stitch side seams down and shoulders toward the center but in the factory it is sewn “in the round” starting at the hem, working up one side, across one shoulder to the next and down the other side to the hem without cutting any threads or stopping. The sewing police will not be banging on your door if you start trying this…really.
Poor Nancy has a 6 inch wide dragon tail down the back and an equally nasty extra wedge down the front that is pinned out and will be removed to make things hang flatter and flatter her shape. Plenty of volume in the skirt with those wide triangular pieces. The bodice will have a partial lining/facing and the shoulders narrowed a little and a one inch hem. These modifications will be done to the paper pattern as we will make this again as a dress and a blouse. This is the shorter version with 3 inches added to the length to be more tea length. The neckline front and back was extended 5/8 inch for more coverage.