This Wtoo Pippin dress is dramatic and very long. We have seen this dress before and know what has to be done to shorten it.
Even this tall model needs her dress shortened in front!
Besides needing to be shortened 4 inches, the lining and satin layers are that darn thick knit again and they are attached together at the hem.
Testing out a 5 point bustle:
Reminding my brides to suck their tummy in and to buy tight underpants is a daily ritual…a pink thong will not make for good photos!
Before the twill tape:
Pin in place:
Then move the center point over one inch and adjust all the tension:
Finish by doing the other side:
Cups now curve towards the body with 2 inches less ease:
Tackling the hem requires going in through a side seam after thread tracing the new hem level.
Pull all the hem out through the opening that needs to be shortened and lay it flat. Hand baste through the 2 layers. Tuck the new hem back inside and hand baste the edges down for the next try-on. Once the bride is happy with the levels, all this excess can be trimmed away.
Some time between the first fitting and hem pinning and the second fitting…things happen to the dresses in my sewing room…skirts grow and knit hems drop. Can you see the first basting level and then the second basting level? How does this happen?
I have a theory that the longer the dress hangs in my sewing room with spa music playing and scented candles burning…they just relax. So my goal is always, once permanently hemmed, the dress should be picked up asap before it grows any longer.
The dainty beaded spaghetti straps need to be removable so the front edge is wrapped with grosgrain ribbon. A French tack is attached at the very top edge of the twill tape.
Under the ribbon is a huge snap sewn to the bust cup. Once snapped on, the remaining end of the strap with the hooks and eyes can be slipped through the French tack strap and then attached in the back.
I like to attach straps closer to center back to keep them from sliding down during the wedding. Attaching at such an angle gives more torque to the whole system.
The finished photos and can you see a ridge across the bride’s tummy? The designer never thought about how the bodice with all the boning and extra layers of lining would look when it stopped being the bodice and had to transition behind the skirt.
There is nothing I can do to make it any flatter so I have to tell the bride that for her photos she will have to remember to hold her bouquet right there. Now, scroll back up to that first photo on the model…can you see that same tummy ridge?
What this bride needs to cover that ridge might be something inspired from this museum?
Thank you for dropping by this week…still wading through my 13 September brides and freezing buckets of tomatoes!