Adding and Adding

The bride fell in love with this dress because of the sash: DaVinci 50161





But what she bought was a Wtoo lapis:

The bride needed more coverage:

She ordered extra lace motifs so we could play with some sort of extensions. I thought the lace alone would be pretty as you can still see through the motifs:

Besides adding to the top edge of the bodice, the zipper will be tightened up 5/8 inch on each side. The pins show the new seam allowances.

That all important butt tuck involving all layers:

Then hem 2 layers and shorten the train and tulle by 10 inches. The trimmed away layers will be used for the bodice extensions.


The bride opted for a solid extension using the extra lining fabrics, 2 layers of tulle in this basic shape. I traced the shape and added seam allowances to two layers of cotton muslin.

She wanted one inch added to the top edge.

Add some seam allowances:

Let’s start stacking and sandwiching 6 layers without the final lining layer.

Once 5 layers were stitched and flipped to the right side, they were pinned to the original bodice. The new lace motifs will be hand sewn on to cover the joined edges. The top edges may need to have some twill tape added to pull the cups back into her chest and be more rounded.

Hand basted back zipper:

Grab a diet Pepsi and get pinning with a sample using a double layer of a black satin scrap. No, the final sash will be beige lining fabric and will have a row of buttons down the back like in the website photo.

The sash will be hand sewn to both sides of the new zipper placement and hand tacked along the top edge with the side seam placement spreading up and down before gathering/pleating  at the princess seam under the left bust.


A beaded lace motif will be attached but for this shot, I just used a regular lace one:

Keep pinning and wrapping tight as you go until you get back to the center and pin in those pleats again. I flipped the excess fabric up to show the second row of pins.

A little bit uneven and in need of tightening but you get the idea…OK, now try picturing it in beige with the edges touching.

I’ll share the final photos with you as we move along. This dress will take 8 hours of labor.

Last week, I was in San Diego with Mr. Mole’s 3 grown-up daughters and family after hosting the first week in our home.

When I boarded the plane, I knew I had 5 new brides scheduled for this week but found 4 more new ones who had left messages on the answerphone. The phrase, “if you play, you have to pay” comes to mind, so my penance for visiting the Old Town, Seaport Village, La Jolla and Balboa Park is to park my butt on the floor and pin, pin, pin for the next 2 weeks and help Mr. Mole with the veggie gardening/transplanting.

As our temps rise here on the West coast and summer seems not-too-far-away, I wish you all a great week of planning and sewing!

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17 Responses to Adding and Adding

  1. Sharon says:

    Welcome home.

  2. Jane M says:

    Glad you got that time away but coming back from holiday is always a bit of a shock to the system. I love what you are doing to this dress and can’t wait to see it finished.

    • mrsmole says:

      Another week of tweaking this dress and sash etc to make the bride happy…so many hours and now today she has asked for more…post to follow…sigh.

  3. Colleen says:

    Thank you for taking time to share when you are overloaded! I am sharing your recent post with a gal trying to add to her skill set to alter bridal. What a gift you are to others in so many ways!

  4. Chris T says:

    As usual your blogs are always so interesting and I have to say I do not envy you all those dresses waiting for your attention. Still I guess you don’t get bored!

  5. I think you do wonderful work, and soemtimes it makes me glad that I live in jeans and sweatshirts and don’t have to worry about even knowing my chest or waist measurements, much less making sure a piece of fabric is exactly the same somehow–!

    • mrsmole says:

      My uniform is the same every day too…cropped stretch pants and a short sleeve knit top…no jewelry, little make-up so i can sit on the floor, pin hems and make small talk. I don’t want to know my measurements either…it must be like filling in the part on the driver’s license that says “Weight”. I always thought it was supposed to be the number you wanted to be, not the actual one.

      • That reminds me of being at this big tarot conference in NYC this weekend, with many big-name people and little-name people, all of whom contstantly take photos of each other and of us. When they showed me in some of the photos, I was appalled at how bad I looked, not attractive to me, and asked them, in all sincerity, if they couldn’t make me look better. It was worth a try!

  6. erniek3 says:

    That sash and lace motif is really pretty, well done!. It looks great over the black. I don’t usually like any of this stuff except as a theoretical exercise in sewing, but I could have gone for that part. Maybe over overalls and a tshirt…..I’ll get back to you on that. 🙂

    • mrsmole says:

      The sash/belt will be beige and the bride has already altered everything about this test sample and adding more to the top as well on the bodice…labor charges going up!

  7. Val says:

    And here’s proof of your expertise (as if we needed it): I consider myself a good intermediate home seamstress but this work would take me TWICE as long as the 8 hours you’ve estimated for your work.

  8. Vicki says:

    Why do all these ladies want the dress so tight that they have an upper back crack?? But your work is, as always, breathtaking

  9. mrsmole says:

    It still befuddles me about that back fat, back crack issue. If you can figure that out, please let me know!

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