Snugging Up

This is the popular dress of the year. I have featured it in the past in smaller sizes, but this bride needed more support and shaping than in previous posts.

Wtoo Della

First thing to do was to pin out 7 inch long darts on each side.

             

After pinning we see that the dart is 2.5 inches wide as well. All of this lace will have to be lifted and moved out of the way to make the darts on the right side.

Looking on the inside lining, the new darts will run right into the existing boning so that will be removed and added back in the end.

Pinned on the right side, the lining needs some red thread tracing now.

On the right side, it has been red thread traced.

Lining thread traced:

Once traced, the dart legs show how far back to lift the lace layer.

Let’s get rid of the boning first.

Now we have the lining free and flat:

The boning will be reserted under the new lining dart later.

As the lining is darted on the inside, the lace edges will be overlapped to hide the new seam.

More lace edge have to be released so all the edges can be overlapped. In case the next bride to wear this dress needs all the original fabric, the next seamstress can just release all the stitiches and voila’ back to normal.

Right side overlapped and pinned down:

Left side pinned and hand basted. You can still see the red thread tracing which will be removed. Once all the lace edges are hand tacked, no one will kow what was done and there will be no bulk.

The inside new dart hand basted ready for flipping forward toward the center:

Even though the dart is flipped and it makes a dip/step down in the upper edge, the two layers of lace overlap to conceal the dip. Under the new dart, the old boning will be attached and I’m afraid that is the missing photo. The new dart acts as a strip of boning and adding back in the old strip gives the bride even more support.

On the outside, like in the other dresses, the lace layer is not attached to the satin layer and makes bubbles so I pin all the lumpy bits and hand tacked all those areas…can you say…time-consuming?

 

In previous Della gowns, the bride asked for a bustle but this time the tulle hem was just shortened without a bustle. Now the bodice hugs her body and gives a smoother line and flattering bust shape.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our recent fires have been contained and after 10 days of thick choking smoke, we can see some patches of blue sky. With over 2,300 homes destroyed displacing over 6,000 residents, our valley has a huge job of clean-up and rebuilding. Here is a 4 minute video explaining how destructive and how fast it moved with little time to escape.

On a lighter note, the veggies are still producing:

Mild green chilis:

Swiss chard, raspberries and blueberries:

Mango melon:

And the birds are harvesting the last of the sunflower seeds before winter comes.

Feeling so grateful to have a home and being safe during the Covid 19 virus. Soon we here in the US will have the second wave of infections as we track the rising numbers in Europe. Maybe sewing is our only escape?

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9 Responses to Snugging Up

  1. shoes15 says:

    I’m glad you were not victim of the fire, but it’s so sad for so many. We in the east coast have been watching with sorrow and horror. And you are right that we will have a new wave of Covid-19 infections and yet more deaths – 200,000-plus in the US. So very sad and mostly preventable if only people would listen and take it seriously.

    • mrsmole says:

      It is so interesting that politicians who do not wear masks are starting to show up with Covid 19. It’s like seat belts…seat belts save lives by not allowing a person to be flung through the front windshield. Wearing a mask blocks out 90% of whatever another person is breathing out…you protect me, I protect you. I see signs that say “Click it or ticket” for seat belt rules and “Mask it or casket” for the troubled times we have now.

  2. JustGail says:

    Glad you did not have any damage to your home. I can’t imagine how smoky it is there – it’s been in the news here in Iowa about our hazy skies are due to smoke. At least when I get smoked out of the garden when DH lights the burn pile (tree cleanup from storm), I can escape the smoke and work elsewhere in the yard. Or go in the house and sew. Very difficult, in so many ways, for those in evacuee camps living in tents, not even knowing if they have anything to return to.

    • mrsmole says:

      Every day I am thankful that I have been spared, Gail. When I hear my 94 yr old mother whining abouit living in a top notch assisted living facility, I want to say, “Hey would you rather change places with other women your age living in a tent on the parking lot at the fairgrounds?”

  3. Laura says:

    Yup, sewing, quilting, creative work is a good escape. Do you ever get in something that you look at and say – no way?

  4. mrsmole says:

    No, Laura, I let them decide if they ask me about a particular alteration or major change to the dress, normally it is the mother of the bride, I am honest and tell them if they are wasting their money. Usually they are grateful and go back and buy a different dress. When I get phone request to replace zippers in sleeping bags or reline a leather coat, I can refer them to others or just say…it will be too expensive.

  5. Tia Dia says:

    The poor West coast – in the US and Canada! I am glad you are safe, and your veggies are happy. Raspberries! I used to have a raspberry patch that gave us berries right up until frost. I have plans to put in another one next year.

    Love the before and after photos of the dress. You fixed a dud (fitting-wise) and made it look good! Yay, Mrs. Mole!!

  6. maryfunt says:

    Glad you are safe. I hope the fires can be controlled soon. Nice fix on the dress.

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